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By no means an easy task. In fact you'd be better off unbolting the seat first (4 bolts) to get it out of the way. Remember the connector underneath and if you disconnect, don't switch the car back on (otherwise the airbag light will come on and can only be switched off by scanner/dealer). The door card won't come off completely. It will never get past the point where it meets the side of the dash.
But once you have it pulled away far enough you can get inside and try to open the lock by pulling on the mechanism, see link to get a better idea. Then you can get the door open and the rest of the card off (with care and removing all connectors). Well, finally got the door open, took two and a half hours! Had to take the seat out then eventually got the door card off.
Took another hour of faffing around with the lock mechanism but it eventually tripped so I could open the door. I got the lock mech out but there's a lever or something not working inside it and it's a riveted unit so just ordered one from a breaker at テつ」25 so I'll get that fitted next week when I get home. What a pain in the backside.
Next job will be to take to drivers side one out and thoroughly lubricate it so it doesn't go the same way. I'd thoroughly recommend others spray lubricate their locks to prevent this happening to you as it will always happen when you least want it to, like going on holiday! Regards Gareth.
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Drivers Door Won't Open From Inside
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Hi all, My X5 door handle won't work from the outside. I think my mom pulled too hard the other day, and now it only open from the inside. The motors and locks all work fine. I just can't open it from the outside. I opened up the door and found that the cable is a bit loose.
2007 Chevy Silverado Drivers Door Won't Open
Check the attached pictures. Will be very thankful to anyone who can provide the smallest help/advice. I'm ready to fix it myself, unless it's a big and expensive job. Thank in advance. Model: X5 3.0i Year: 2001 - Bikram Picture 1 (Door) - Picture 2 (Cable) - Picture 3 (Close up of loose cable).
Raaz 3 full movie download torrent file. This is a common problem with the X5. I have replaced two of these in the 75,000 miles I have owned it. One apparently was replaced under warranty with the previous owner.
The assembly is about $98 delivered, I think ECS has the best price, but Pelican and BavAuto are not far off either. It is a little tricky to replace, but not hard if you are handy with tools. I was able to do it with a basic tool kit that I keep in my camper. See: Good Luck! Check those window clips while you are in there and BE CAREFUL WITH THE AIRBAGS!
Blow your damn head off. Taking decade-old BMWs to a dealer is just stupid. If you just bothered to Google it, you would have found my instructions online at: An independent mechanic can do this for about $300 or less. The part is $95.
Dealers are for warranty work, period. Once out of warranty, avoid them. This is a common problem with the X5 and the E46, I believe, which shares a similar mechanism.
I have done both front doors. The first one took me a couple of hours. The second one took less than an hour. Order spare door clips when you order the part, as you will break some removing the door panel. Had the same problem. Repaired by dealer at a cost of $400.
I have used non-dealer mechanics on my X5 and found the following: 1. 4 wheel alignment: Had to bring vehicle back because they didn't tighten something enough on the front axle. Although mechanic used Brembo rotors (good quality) the painted surface near the hub rusts more easily than the replacement rotor used by BMW dealer. How to install front license plate bracket on chevy equinox. Not saying dealers don't charge a lot- but they do use quality parts and tend to fix issues correctly the first time.
Had the same problem. Repaired by dealer at a cost of $400. I have used non-dealer mechanics on my X5 and found the following: 1. 4 wheel alignment: Had to bring vehicle back because they didn't tighten something enough on the front axle. Although mechanic used Brembo rotors (good quality) the painted surface near the hub rusts more easily than the replacement rotor used by BMW dealer. Not saying dealers don't charge a lot- but they do use quality parts and tend to fix issues correctly the first time. The problem is, these cars are rapidly decreasing in value.
Most early X5's are worth less than $10,000 by now, some far less. Many are trading in the $6000 to $8000 range. Not much demand for 200,000 mile 15-year-old cars, no matter if they are BMWs or how well taken care of they are (and most were not - the X5 does not attract the enthusiast buyer as much).
Spending $400 to repair a door handle on a $8000 car is not really cost-effective, particularly when more than one breaks (and they will). Most owners get fatigued by these small repairs, which, over time can add up to a lot of dough. At this point, I would say that if you are not handy with tools, it might be time to pack it in. Even an independent mechanic will be a nightmare of repair costs for a car this old and this depreciated. These cars are reaching the shade-tree D-I-Y mechanic stage. In a way, it is the fun part. It is not hard to do the door handle replacement (I've done it twice, it is a typical repair) and the part is about $96 including shipping.
I had the pix posted on Webshots, but they sold the site and then re-ordered the photos to try to be like some twitter-based site. All the captions and instructions were lost. But it is not all that hard to do. As for the rotors, even the 'factory' ones rust over time, as mine did. The aftermarket rust faster, but both rust. What I did was take a piece of cardboard (from the rotor shipping carton) and cut a hole in the center the size of the hat.
Before installing the caliper, spray the hat with silver hi-temp spray, after sanding the hat lightly. This avoids getting spray on the rotor itself. I got over 60,000 miles out of my last set of brakes (yes, even the pads) and the rotors were pretty rusty by the 30,000 mile mark. This trick has worked well - twice now.
With the 18' sport wheels, you really notice that rust, for sure. Glad you had good experience with the dealer. But I am not sure at this point, that even an independent mechanic is worthwhile, when these cars are so old and worth so little. For people not handy with tools, my advice would be: Fish further up the food chain (i.e., buy a newer car).
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